Haeparang gil: Why I Chose This Hike (And Why You Might Too)

Ever heard of the Haeparang Gil? No? Don’t worry — me neither, until Google casually changed my life. Just under two months ago — 1 month and 18 days to be precise — I arrived on foot at the border between South Korea and North Korea, carrying an 8kg backpack and two walking sticks. I was standing there, somewhere between overwhelmed and reborn, after walking for 31 days straight.

It all started on April 21st at Oryukdo Park in Busan — that coastal city K-drama fans know all too well. The first section of the trail was 17 kilometres long and ended at the iconic Haeundae Beach. Not too shabby for a Day 1, huh?

Honestly, if you mix “passport + unknown adventure,” I basically turn into Quirrell possessed by Voldemort drinking unicorn blood: slightly unhinged but very much alive and ready for whatever comes my way!

But why was I there? With a newly purchased Haeparang gil hiking passport and this weird urge to torture my legs voluntarily? Let me explain. No interruptions, please. Yes, even you in the back. Sit down. Thank you.

Why I decided to do the Haeparang Gil (Pre-walking version)

I was in Switzerland working, and due to some extremely questionable logistical choices, I found myself with two full months of total freedom. So what did I do with all these possibilities? I decided to walk. Because I love it. I love long walks, a heavy backpack, the pain, the sweat, the borderline masochism. I LOVE IT.

And no, I’m not running from anything. (Okay maybe… anyway!)

In my “Let’s go walk somewhere new” spiral, I remembered the Taiwan walking trail — the one that loops the entire island, a casual 2,800km. So I started Googling. And then — BAM 💥 *gospel choir singing in the background*— I saw it: “South Korea has just launched its official 4,500km-long national trail.” I literally choked on my mate and screamed “SAY WHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAT” out loud.

Turns out Korea created this mega trail — the Korea Dulle-Gil — divided into four regional sections: the DMZ Peace Trail, Haeparang Gil, Namparang Gil, and Seohaerang Gil. Each one comes with cute arrows and flags to follow through the whole length of the hike, like the Camino de Santiago. There’s an official app (Durunubi), maps, and YES: certificates when you finish each section. Hello, instant motivation!

Just like that, I had three solid reasons: an excuse to come back to Korea, a long walk with ocean views and mountain trails, and an organised route that didn’t require me to bushwhack through the wild (for a long time, because it did happen!)

But then came the BEST reason of all:

NO ONE HAD WRITTEN ABOUT IT

I mean it. There were no blogs and zero Reddit posts that accounted for the entire walk. I did find some information about some of the circuits within the Haeparang Gil… but the whole thing? ZERO.

The, I asked in Facebook groups and got vague answers like “You can’t really do it in one go, it’s not like the Camino.” But I looked at the map and thought, “Sure I can.” So I kept searching. Nothing.

No one’s done it?

No one’s even tried!?

YEP. MY TIME TO SHINE.

I’m not saying I don’t have some… little issues… but now you have a full blog post thanks to them. You’re welcome.

Why I picked the Haeparang Gil section out of the 4 Korea Dulle Trail

Easy: I had just over a month left, and the Haeparang Trail is 770km long. The DMZ trail was shorter (500km), but the other two were over 1,000km. Haeparang it was.

Now let’s get a bit more objective:

Why You Might Want to Walk the Haeparang Trail Too

+ It’s divided into 50 sections, but you can customize how you walk it. I did it in 31 days and it felt chill. It’s super well-marked — you’ll see arrows and flags every 200m or so. The only slightly confusing parts were around Pohang (a few sections didn’t have arrows), but the Durunubi app saved the day.

+ It’s basically unknown to foreign tourists. Even most Koreans haven’t heard of it unless they’re hardcore trekkers. That means quiet trails, real solitude, and a deep connection with nature.

+ South Korea is super safe, and even as a solo female hiker, I felt completely fine 99% of the time.

+ “Haeparang” literally means “sun and sea,” and that’s exactly what you get: long coastal views, sleepy fishing villages, and a deep dive into local culture and folklore.

+ It’s a great first-time long-distance hike. Apart from a few mountain sections, you’re never too far from a road or bus stop. So if you’re feeling done, help is usually just around the corner.

+ Apart from accommodation, food and daily expenses in Korea are relatively affordable.

But also… here are a few cons you should know

⚠️ It’s a very solitary trail. If you’re looking to meet people or hike with other travelers, this ain’t it.

⚠️ Camping is not really an option for most of the hike. So unless you’re lucky with guesthouses, you’ll likely have to stay in motels — the only real budget option in many areas. If you’re solo, it adds up fast.

⚠️ Technically, the trail is open year-round, but PLEASE don’t try it in the summer or late spring. The last few days of my walk were so hot I had to stop by 11am and start again at 4pm. Asphalt + sun = not cute.

⚠️ Budget-wise, it’s way more doable if you go with someone. And trust me — I LOVE travelling alone. I’m Miss Solo Adventure™️. But even I have to admit: this one would’ve been way cheaper with a buddy.

⚠️ It’s NOT a beginner trail. If you have knee issues or hate stairs, turn around now. It’s physically demanding, and I strongly recommend training with weight beforehand. Like… I climbed so many stairs — wooden, metal, concrete — I could write a thesis about them. You can have a look at my Instagram profile and see for yourself. I dedicated a whole reel to the stairs.

So there you go. A little intro to a trail that no one talks about (until now 😌). If this post has you even slightly curious, that means my work here is done.

Happy hiking!
– Angie 💛

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